Around the island (second day), Green Island, Taiwan

We had breakfast at the B&B, Shiacarl. It was pretty tasty although I did not like the sausage so I gave the second piece to the dog mascot (tooto) and he seem to rather enjoy it. That dog is an expert at begging food from guests!

The B&B is owned by a very nice and welcoming family that invested a lot of money in achieving their dream of an island job, quitting their jobs to come here. They have 6 rooms (4 for 2p, 2 for 4p) for rent in addition to rooms for more frequent guests. A sign of their philosophy: no TV in rooms! They find the guests being dismayed at that fact very amusing too...

We then went for a scooter ride to go around the entire 20 km loop around the island from 8am to noon with an half hour stop for lunch in the downtown area.

Of course, this includes a few stops along the way to admire the sights. There is a wonderful observation point perched on top of a rock that looks down on two rock formations; one is called the sleeping beauty and the other the dog and they both look like they are described. We also drove down sea level in the location of an old native village and the largest arch on the island. We then went by a Buddhist temple in an underground cave. We also spent some time in the visitor center getting information and sending postcards.

For lunch, I had Sika deer meat (chewy and gamy) while Min Lin ate some fried rice. We drank ibiscus and prune juice, similar to what we had at the dragon restaurant.

Snorkeling around Green Island, Taiwan

One set of differences in cultures is what they fear and what they don't. Japaneses will gladly eat fugu (pufferfish) that could kill them but fearful of foreigners. Germans will be happy to get comatose drunk but fear slipping back into militarism. Californians (not a nationality but still pretty distinct) will do all kind of extreme sports but fear being in the wrong school districts.

Taiwaneses will happily speed at 80 km/h on an old decrepit scooter without an helmet but fear water. This is especially strange for a people living on an island, but Min Lin says learning to swim was never much of a priority when they were children. This explains why Taiwaneses visiting the island have so easily assimilated the fear that swimming alone means you could be dragged by underwater currents all the way to Okinawa...

Instead of educating people, having people sign non-responsibility releases or doing proper management of areas to ensure people swim safely, Taiwan decided instead that you needed a certified instructor to hold your hand. It is just coincidence that it also keeps the local snorkeling businesses going too...

So it is all decked out with a swimsuit, a lifejacket and holding to one of 8 lifesavers strung together in a group of 25 other persons that I lived my first snorkeling experience on Green Island. Not only did I feel ridiculous and insulted, but the sense of adventure and discovery is gone. The experience is as artificial as floating on top of an aquarium.

Yes, of course, the fishes are colorful, varied and bountiful. They've gotten into the habit of eating all the bread that tourism gives them so they gather in the area.

This creates a Disney like experience and a crowd pleaser that will make the experience very enjoyable for first timers.... But I can't seem to get out that the freedom, romance and sense of wonder is missing compared to our experiences on the French Riviera. I'm also wondering how long this will last with hundreds of tourism stepping awkwardly on coral - it seems that the instructors responsibilities don't include educating people to protect the wildlife, although it is forbidden to take anything away (60K NT$).

Just make sure that if you want that freedom you bring some kind of internationally recognized certification...

Transportation on Green Island, Taiwan

After our ride to the hotel, we decided to go to the downtown area. The island is surrounded by a 20 km road that creates a ring between the mountains and the ocean. From the hotel, the downtown area is 8 km away.

The best way to get around is the scooter: it is energy efficient, well suited to the nice weather and the narrow road and was probably easier to bring to the island by boat too.

The problem is that I don't have my permit and Min Lin's doesn't like to drive... Well, at least we thought it would be a problem because I was handed the keys to a scooter without any questions!

So off I went driving my first real motorized vehicle on the narrow and weaving roads of the island, Min Lin sitting behind me and squeezing me, reminding us from a typical scene from a romantic Chinese movie. The scooter tops out at 80 km/h as I discovered on a few straight stretches.

Luckily, there are very few other visitors to the island right now, because Taiwanese drive as crazy as in Taipei - zig zagging between other scooters and pedestrian at high speed. We seem to be also the only ones wearing an helmet even if the law requires it!

That night, it was also my first time (like everything else on a motor vehicle) driving in the dark. There is no light provided on the road but apart from a few near misses where we almost drove into the water, we made it back safely.

For some weird reason, Min Lin walks away from my rides feeling stressed...

The trip to Green island 綠島, Taiwan

We got a ride from the hotel to the port of Taitung. There, pushy group guides tried to cut in line until Min Lin got real miffed and started shouting. For some strange reason, Taiwaneses here think I'm Japanese and that it gives them the right to walk all over me until Min Lin gives them crap in the Taiwanese dialect.

The 50 minutes boat trip was uneventful apart from the exocets flying away from the boat, a glimpse at a dolphin (according to Min Lin) and the sight of a few passengers getting sick.

We got a ride from the B&B owner in the back of his two seats Pronto truck. I don't think he made any allowance for trying safer either! Strangely, reckless and fun motor vehicle behavior is not matched with any flexibility in water sports; every tourism must be part of a group.

Arriving at the Shiacarl B&B 夏卡爾民宿, the room we got is quite nice; wooden floors in a 3 stories building with a strict rule not to walk in the room with shoes on; a good Japanese tradition. Our room has a view on the ocean and the jungle near the south-east tip of the island.

Dragon water tea house, Jiben, Taiwan

After the hot spring cooked eggs, we decided to keep walking towards the Jiben royal hotel. We saw another family of monkeys on the side of the road. They are easy to spot because they get very noisy (like Taiwanese tour groups) and jump from branch to branch when someone walks by.

Our plan was to either find a restaurant or call up the one that was advertising free pick up. However, we then found a sign indicating that the restaurant was 600m away so we decided to walk... uphill.

550m... 500m... was this such a good idea?... 400m... 300m... maybe we should have called them?...200m... the farmer that we had seen coming up earlier with a bag of vegetables is now coming back down with a quizzical face... 100m... we've worked up quite a sweat... 50m... an ugly old shed on the side of the road is not confidence inspiring... "you are almost there".... "just right around the bend"...

The vista opens up on the cloud covered mountains, an orchestra of singing birds, scratching insects, croaking frogs, howling monkeys and foliage dancing in the wind.

The restaurant is a bamboo patio built as an extension to a private home where 5 generations of the same Taiwanese family lived.

As dusk comes, we can see the lights of the nearby city, Taitung. A counter in the restaurant offers wood carved products, rare teas, a variety of body oils. The lady, somewhat surprised to see us without reservations, welcomes us and demoes a mint essential oil to help cold down our overheated bodies. She takes our order for dinner and two drinks (one from a flower and the other prune, both very strong).

The food is zen; simple but tasty, including a mountain vegetable in a light black bean sauce. Eating slowly while admiring the show that nature is putting on is very relaxing.

We soon take our leave, pay our dinner (700$NT total) and use the free ride back to the hotel...

Tonight in Rainbow Hotel 泓泉溫泉渡假村, Jiben, Taiwan

Another two hours by train and a taxi ride brought us in a remote area in the mountains with many hot springs resorts. We are staying at the Rainbow Hotel 泓泉溫泉渡假村 in Jiben hot spring area. Very basic accommodations since the hotel is pretty old. The facilities are small but have one major advantage compared to spa resorts; the water is naturally heated by geothermal energy and with a large quantity of minerals doesn't need chlorination.

We went for as small walk and saw a monkey. Apart from that the trail is again littered with all kinds of garbage, including an entire bath!

We then went for a walk in the hope of finding something better than the ghastly restaurant at the hotel. We found a place where you can buy and cook eggs in the boiling hot spring water - a Min Lin's favorite.

Second day at Hotel Bayview 七星潭渡假飯店, Hualien 花蓮, Taiwan

As planned, we woke up before sunrise and after taking a few pics of the sun over the ocean, we went for an hour and 30 minutes (15km) round trip bike ride. This time we went north instead of the south direction we took yesterday.

The bike path is as beautiful and well constructed as the other segment and 1km of the path goes through a botanical park, a fishing village, a cemetery while close to the military base.

The breakfast was also quite good with lots of vegetarian choices for Min Lin including congee and egg foo young. They also serve watermelon; this is a region specialty and it is considered the best in Taiwan. Not only that, but there is currently a watermelon festival going on.

All in all, we got a great deal for 2600$NT (80$USD) and we'll certainly remember room 507! I think it helps that the co-owner also lived in Argentina like Min Lin so they are being extra nice.

As far as now, the weather in mid-may is good too; although very hot at 30 celcius and is not as humid and we don't have much to worry about typhoon. But it is definitely a great idea to put all physical activities early in the morning and late in the evening.

Going to Chixintang 七星潭 (near Hualien 花蓮), Taiwan

Today, we took the train #2039 limited express from Taipei main station, car 9 seats 14 and 16 at noon. The trip duration was 3h and 8 minutes and the train started exactly on time and made it on time.

Was this an habit inherited from when Japan occupied Taiwan? Are the train on the mainland generally on time? It is depressing to compare this to the sorry state of public transportation and train transportation in North America.

One of the hotel owner took us from Hualien station to the hotel as we were one of the very few visitors that came without a car.

We were immediately impressed by the gorgeous blue and white exterior of the Bay View hotel 七星潭渡假飯店. All employees are very friendly and for once, the room was even better!

Located on the 5th and top floor, it has a superb view of the ocean as the name promised and the room setting is pretty close to the ideal we have for the dream apartment! It has a big bath, a spacious shower, a comfortable bed. The bathroom is surrounded by glass so it is possible to take a bath and admire the ocean view! To top it all NO STUPID CARPETING! Yeah!

The roof has also a lounge area and a jacuzzi that sadly wasn't working. The police will also not permit you to swim in the ocean due to the dangerous waves. I learned that when two of them came and told me to get out after I had some fun breaking the rule and feigning ignorance at the chinese only sign. I still had enough time to enjoy the experience of surprisingly warm water crashing into me a few times.

Since water is out, you have to fallback on the good and free bicycles and the wonderful 10 km coast bike trail. The mountains looking north are quite a sight. You also get a peek at the airforce base (with F16 galore) and the AA flak cannons. I can only imagine that this is possible with the recent detente in relationships with mainland China.

We are also looking forward to the sunrise tomorrow at 5:13 am which should be great since our view is due east.

A can't miss hotel on the east coast of Taiwan although the limited activities and food options probably mean you'll spend only one or two nights. Luckily the area is surrounded with sights and places to go. More in future posts.